zoe nathan's blueberry cornmeal cake
This recipe comes from pastry chef Zoe Nathan; it’s the signature cake at both of her Los Angeles outposts, Huckleberry and Milo and Olive. I’ve made it more times than I can count, and it’s among my favorites. Cornmeal cakes can be tricky to make since cornmeal can easily dry everything out, but not here. A combination of oil, maple syrup, yogurt, and ricotta keeps this cake tender. The texture of the cornmeal is delicate and balanced, and the crust bakes up golden and buttery. There’s also plenty of vanilla and salt, which is a very good thing.
I especially like making this in late summer when it’s cool enough to turn on the oven and blueberry season is nearing its end. At the bakeries, the cake is topped with cream cheese frosting and a tumble of fresh blueberries. In general, the blueberries are a lovely complement to the cornmeal, but you can also make this with huckleberries, strawberries, or even cranberries (see below).
Zoe Nathan’s Blueberry Cornmeal Cake
Adapted from Huckleberry by Zoe Nathan, Laurel Almerinda, and Josh Loeb.
This is largely a “bakery” recipe, meaning it’s written more for weights than cups and spoons; use a kitchen scale if possible. I left the cake ingredients and method mostly unchanged, but I included a topping of cream cheese frosting and fresh blueberries, like it’s served in the bakeries. If subbing sliced strawberries, sprinkle with brown sugar instead of white. If using cranberries, add the zest of one orange and use both brown and white sugar. These also work well as muffins!
Makes one 10-inch cake.
INGREDIENTS
13 1/2 tablespoons (195 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons (190 grams) sugar, plus 2 tablespoons for sprinkling
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 eggs, at room temperature
4 1/2 tablespoons canola oil
3 tablespoons maple syrup
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups (200 grams) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (120 grams) cornmeal
2 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (270 milliliters) whole plain yogurt
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon (130 grams) ricotta
1 cup fresh (150 grams) blueberries
CREAM CHEESE FROSTING + BERRIES (optional)
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
8 ounces cream cheese, directly from the refrigerator
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 cups (339 grams) confectioners sugar, sifted if lumpy
1-3 tablespoons heavy cream, depending on your desired consistency
2 cups (300 grams) fresh blueberries
METHOD
Position a rack in the middle of your oven and preheat to 350°F. Line and grease a 10-inch round cake pan.
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, 3/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar, and salt on medium-high speed, until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Incorporate the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Be sure to scrape the sides of the bowl well.
With the mixer on low speed, pour in the canola oil, maple syrup, and vanilla. Stop to add the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, yogurt, and ricotta. Mix cautiously, just until incorporated. Do not over-mix!
Scoop the batter into the prepared pan, top with the cup of blueberries, and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Bake for 1 hour and 10 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean. Do not over-bake! Allow the cake to cool for at least 15 minutes before removing from the pan.
TO MAKE THE OPTIONAL CREAM CHEESE FROSTING: In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment or using an electric beater, beat the butter until smooth. Add the cream cheese and blend on low until fully combined and smooth. Add the vanilla extract and confectioners sugar, and beat to combine. Increase speed to medium, and beat until light and fluffy. Add the heavy cream, a tablespoon at a time, until you reach your desired consistency.
Serve the cake topped with the cream cheese frosting and a tumble of fresh blueberries, if using. The cake is best served the day it’s made but keeps, tightly wrapped, at room temperature, for up to 2 days.