ricardo zarate's lomo saltado
Lomo saltado—one of Peru’s most beloved and iconic dishes—is a comforting stir fry of beef, tomatoes, onions, aji amarillo paste, and soy sauce. The dish is deeply rooted in the Chifa tradition of Peruvian-Chinese food, brought to Peru by the influx of East Asian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
The dish is a favorite of chef Ricardo Zarata, but he admits “there are a lot of bad versions out there. It’s hard not to be disappointed when a saltado has steamed, instead of seared, ingredients. That’s a stew, not a stir-fry.” Of course, Ricardo’s version is exceptional. The key is to use high heat to sear everything quickly, but still keep it fresh; the meat should be medium-rare, the tomatoes juicy, the onions tender on the outside and crunchy inside. The ingredients matter: the tomatoes should be beautiful and ripe; the steak should be a nice cut of meat. Ricardo prefers filet mignon, and I’m not one to disagree.
This recipe comes together in seconds, is extremely flavorful, and is more than the sum of its parts. During tomato season, I regularly eat it with rice to soak up all the steak and tomato juices, but it’s also traditionally served with fries or skillet potatoes.
Ricardo Zarate’s Lomo Saltado
Adapted from The Fire of Peru: Recipes and Stories from my Peruvian Kitchen by Ricardo Zarata and Jean Garbee.
The original recipe has a separate entry for the saltado sauce, which is a mother sauce used throughout the book. I’ve streamlined and simplified things here for the home cook. Aji amarillo paste is a common Peruvian ingredient and can be found at Latin grocery stores or online. Make sure to prep all the ingredients and read through the directions before starting; the total cooking time will be fast, only a few minutes. If using plum tomatoes, let them ripen on the counter for a few days to soften. This recipe makes enough for two, but is easily doubled—just make sure to use a big enough pan to get a good sear on everything.
Serves 2.
INGREDIENTS
SALTADO SAUCE
1 1/2 teaspoon grated or pressed garlic
1 teaspoon grated ginger
1/2 teaspoon aji amarillo paste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably a good-quality Japanese brand
2 1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
2 to 3 tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil
8 to 10 ounces filet mignon or tenderloin, thinly sliced into 2-inch-long strips
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced
1 large or 2 smaller ripe heirloom, beefsteak, or other juicy tomatoes, or 2 plum tomatoes, cut into wedges
2 scallions, finely chopped
4 sprigs fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems finely chopped
METHOD
MAKE THE SALTADO SAUCE: Shake up all the ingredients in a small jar or stir them together in a bowl. Sauce can be made ahead, covered, and refrigerated for up to 1 week.
Prep all of your other ingredients (keep each in a separate pile), so they’re ready; this dish cooks quickly. Sprinkle the beef lightly with the salt and pepper.
Heat a wok or large sauté pan over high heat until hot—a good 2 minutes. Pour in the oil to lightly coat the bottom of the pan and heat the oil for 2 to 3 minutes, until very hot. The oil shouldn’t be smoking, but close to it. Swirl the oil around the pan, then toss in the beef and quickly sear both sides for a few seconds each until it begins to brown, about 30 seconds total.
Add the onion and shake the pan or use tongs to flip them a few times, then add the tomatoes right away. Fry until the edges of the onions color in a few spots and the tomatoes barely begin to soften, about 30 seconds. The total cooking time shouldn’t be more than 90 seconds at this point.
Immediately drizzle the saltado sauce along the edges of the wok or pan, not on top of the stir-fry ingredients. You should smell the sauces caramelizing. Scatter the scallions and cilantro on top of the stir-fry and toss everything together one more time. Taste and add another drizzle of soy sauce, if you’d like. The dish should be really juicy, with big flavors that potatoes or rice can sop up.